My Second Aluminium Foundry
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by NutandBolt
Author:NutandBoltFLAMING FURNACE
I have too many hobbies and never enough time. My blogs: ----------------------------------- Paracord projects: www.paracord-projects.blogspot.com ----------------------------------- Flaming Furnace (new blog) www.flamingfurnace.blogspot.com -----------------------------------
I have too many hobbies and never enough time.
My blogs: <(���)>
-----------------------------------
Paracord projects:
www.paracord-projects.blogspot.com
-----------------------------------
Flaming Furnace (new blog)
www.flamingfurnace.blogspot.com
-----------------------------------
more »
I have too many hobbies and never enough time. My blogs: <(���)> ----------------------------------- Paracord projects: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.paracord-projects.blogspot.com">www.paracord-projects.blogspot.com</a> ----------------------------------- Flaming Furnace (new blog) <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.flamingfurnace.blogspot.com">www.flamingfurnace.blogspot.com</a> -----------------------------------
introMy Second Aluminium Foundry
This is my second Ible of my homemade foundry. My first one was my :
Mini Charcoal Furnace.
In this instructable I will explain how I made my second bigger foundry yet again mostly constructed from scrap I collected and recycled it into something more usefull.
The biggest advantage of this design is that it has a very strong body made from an empty gas cylinder and the best part is that it will last for a long time, the only thing that might have to be changed or repaired is the inside refractory.
As I wrote on my last ible my aim is to create some aluminium sand casting of differrent objects.
At this stage I piled my aluminum ingots and did a few experiments with my foundry, some successful others went wrong which I have learned from. It is really exciting to create some new aluminium object knowing what it was in its former "life" cycle.
I will also try and explain a little bit about sand casting to my knowledge.
I am no expert it is all based on my hobby experience so I hope you enjoy it.
_____________________________________________________________________
A few Saftey words: Coming into contact with fire and boiling melted metal can be very dangerous so always work safe using proper full body protection including respirator mask against toxic fumes and dust from mixing refractory materials. Never melt in a wet area or near water, if water comes into contact with the boiling aluminium it might "blow" in your direction.
The info in this instructable is based on my experience.
I disclaim any responsibility for any resulting damage, injury, or expense.
All use by you of this website is at your own risk, work safe.
_____________________________________________________________________
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step 1Cutting the gas Cylinder
First I made sure the cylinder is empty then I drilled 2 holes. One hole to fill the cylinder with water the other as an air hole which also makes it easier to empty the water and to fill it again. After all the gas is gone I marked where I want to cut and used my small grinder for that job. When I cut the cylinder I had it full of water, just to be on the safe side. It took me less then 10min to cut the cylinder handle, top nozzle and cylinder top including grinding the rough bits of metal. It is a good idea to mark lines over cutting so later on when welding the lid will fit well.
When using a grinder it is recommended you wear eye and ears protection.
image not found
After gas cylinder is emptied of gas I drilled 2 holes.
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49 comments
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1-40 of 49
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Oct 22, 2010. 6:46 AMbuteomont says:
I used a muffin tin for my ingots too, but be careful! I didn't realize that my first muffin tin was made from aluminum too. The molten metal just poured right through it!
REPLY
15
Oct 23, 2010. 11:42 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Some kitchen utensils are made of aluminum especially pots/pans. Next time if you are not sure just place a magnet to the material.
Thanks for the tip ;-)
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:57 AMxarlock667 says:
That does not always work, as stainless is not magnetic. Most cookwares state what they are made from if you look, if not call the maker and be damned sure. Cast Iron is always a good fall back.
REPLY
Oct 21, 2010. 4:22 PMjoel383 says:
looks good man! love all the pictures.
I highly recommend http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/index.php
We are a community if hobby metal casters. I'm currently working on my second furnace as well and, first Instructable ... see the progress here www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4897
I also highly recommend moving up to Waste Oil (WO) or Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO). The amount of energy contained in the oil far exceeds wood, and it is easy to store, as you don't need more than a couple gallons once you get it set up correctly... plus it's FREE! you will need a larger air supply probably. you really don't need much to move to oil. just a feed tube (copper works well), a valve to control oil flow and therefore temp, and a container for the oil.
here are some pictures of my old furnace back in Texas:
Two 1" layers of Kaowool, and the rest filled with dense castable refractory
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:54 AMxarlock667 says:
WOW that is THICK! Mine is only an inch thick! Are you melting steel or what?
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 10:25 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thanks for your comment and links, I was looking at the waste oil burner on your Alaskan Furnace forum and that is exactly what I need, Cant wait to see your furnace finished.
At the moment I am making sand rammer mold for my new furnace I will post images when it will be finished.
BTW can I copy your furnace images to my new blog?
http://flamingfurnace.blogspot.com/
I am making a page of homemade furnces images. I will credit you and add your link.
REPLY
Oct 23, 2010. 4:31 PMjoel383 says:
Absolutely. I don't have a camera, but once i get some refractory, I'll try to borrow one to document the build process and make it into an Instructable. This type of burner wasn't originally a WO burner so i will be running it off of diesel until i rig up a filtration system. Filtration is ESSENTIAL to this type because the aperture of the nozzle is so small. The atomization of the fuel is awesome, it makes a cloud out of diesel. I'm thinking about filtering it before i put it into the feed tank with an automotive oil filter.
will you be casting the rammer? http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2725&highlight=cast+rammer+aluminum
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2283&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=cast+rammer+aluminum&start=15
REPLY
15
Oct 24, 2010. 2:31 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I agree regarding waste oil burner, you do need realy good filter to keep all impurities away from the noozle. I just finished my sand rammer and I saw your link with the foam rammer casting, looks great I might make another rammer one day using lost foam method.
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:51 AMxarlock667 says:
I notice that your casting only had one sprue, You should always have 2, one to pour, and one as a pressure release(In case of a bit of excess water) and to allow extra air pockets to escape (to prevent bubbles). Aside from that, great foundry and good casting!
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:06 AMbasefilm says:
Great work. Clear, practical, useful. I appreciate the descriptions of what did not work (the first crucible) just as much as what did. It is maybe even more valuable from a safety standpoint to be aware of these things. Thank you!
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 7:12 AMhairybaroque says:
Beautifully clear photos and text! So sensible to keep it totally self contained with the charcoal; no feed joints to get a bit too hot and give up. Have you any plans to attempt producing dies to do repeat castings without sand? I like this ible!
REPLY
Oct 22, 2010. 9:23 AMThat Inventor Dude says:
Dat is Awesoooome
REPLY
15
Oct 23, 2010. 11:45 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you for your positive comment ;-)
REPLY
4
Oct 23, 2010. 5:05 AMtrailleadr says:
Very nicely done.
Just curious did you find that the tap handles melted a little easier than the other stuff? They look like a white metal (lead/tin alloy) not aluminum.
I would say be very selective about mixing your ingots for a big pour, so as to not compromise the strength of your casting. Good luck with your future metal work :)
REPLY
15
Oct 23, 2010. 9:20 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I think the tap handles are aluminum, I do my best not to mix different alloys and personally I am not in favor of melting anything that contains lead at all because its toxic nature. I mark every ingot what object it came from. Some objects could be deceving thinking it is aluminum but the difference could be easly spoted by the weight and color of the metal (lead is darker). I still haven't done big pours, at the moment practicing my sand casting on small scale objects. Thanks again for the tip :-)
REPLY
Oct 21, 2010. 1:17 PMbuirv says:
Here they are... Firefox has issues with Uploads
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 3:41 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Can I copy your furnace images to my new blog? http://flamingfurnace.blogspot.com/ I am making a page of homemade furnces images. I will credit you and add your image/blog ect' link. Thanks again.
REPLY
Oct 22, 2010. 4:46 PMbuirv says:
You have a nice site their. Sure you can post my pictures there. If you want, I can get you more detailed pictures.
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 2:13 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, Your foundry looks awesome! Very big ingots too. One question I have for you. At the moment I contemplating between Gas burner and Waste oil burner which of the two do you think is better regarding spending money, smoke, efficiency ect'. Until now I used only charcoal but to be honest I am fed up of the preparation every time, smoke and they dont last for long if the air blower setting is too high.
If you do use propane gas can you explain to me please how you made the gas burner. Thanks again ;-)
REPLY
Oct 22, 2010. 4:44 PMbuirv says:
Thank You - I prefur Propane over anything else. Just because it's clean burning. I live in Southern California, so Air Quality is an issue with the neighbors. Melting down old disk drive cases, beach chairs and soda cans are my primary sources of AL. All of is smokes at first when you melt it. Otherwise, Oil burners are probably the worst to mess around with.
See this site - I credit this guy for the burner information and what I based my foundry on. I also made a forge too. Same burner and setup. http://metalcast.boorman.us/
REPLY
6
Oct 22, 2010. 3:53 AMEmmettO says:
Propane burners are relatively easy. I make mine out of gas line parts. It takes some fiddling around with to get the lean/rich ratio right and the length of the burner (buy a couple gas nipples from 12" to 8" to try). The hardest part is drilling out the burner hole in a small 1/4 inch pipe. I think my hole is a #60 drill bit (maybe a #58) it's been too long. Start small and work your way up. You'll need an adjustable high pressure regulator too. regular 10 lb propane tanks are too small to feed a burner and will freeze after about a half hour. You'd need a bigger tank, or several tanks to switch between.
All that said, a waste oil burner is the better burner it gets hotter and is cheaper to operate (at least in theory, its waste oil). The down side is that they tend to be more complicated and more finicky.
REPLY
6
Oct 21, 2010. 6:21 PMEmmettO says:
I always had trouble figuring out what I wanted to cast. I've made a few cups out of copper and aluminum and some ingots. I built a reverb furnace for breaking down scrap, haven't used it yet. I'd like to try plaques using lost foam. I've been too busy though.
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 10:35 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thanks for all the burner info and images, I think I will go with the waste oil burner I checked a few sites and many foundry users change to waste oil.
Cool images I never worked with copper but I belive nice molds could be created in sand casting.
Can I copy your furnace images to my new blog? http://flamingfurnace.blogspot.com/
I am making a page of homemade furnces images.
I will credit you and add your link.
REPLY
6
Oct 22, 2010. 11:38 AMEmmettO says:
Oh, and yes you may use the pics.
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 3:43 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you :-)
REPLY
6
Oct 22, 2010. 11:36 AMEmmettO says:
I don't have burner build info but here are some links and pics.
http://www.store32.net/chaudywogbaaga/index.php/2008/09/09/my_forge_burner?blog=2
http://www.store32.net/chaudywogbaaga/index.php/2009/03/03/making_a_new_metal_melting_furnace_and_a?blog=2
http://www.store32.net/chaudywogbaaga/index.php/2009/03/23/fire?blog=2
REPLY
4
Oct 21, 2010. 12:26 AMKryptonite says:
That looks awesome, nice job, and I can't wait to see what else you make!
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 2:35 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you for your positive comment ;-)
REPLY
4
Oct 22, 2010. 4:18 AMKryptonite says:
No probs, nice greentext there.
REPLY
6
Oct 21, 2010. 6:28 PMEmmettO says:
As for crucibles, I struggled with making a crucible for melting copper. It would melt through every steel crucible I made. I eventually found a site that sells cheap fire clay crucibles and thats what I use now. http://www.lmine.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LMS&Product_Code=17703&Category_Code=economy_repacks
REPLY
18
Oct 21, 2010. 3:15 PMreukpower says:
I like it, and I like molten metal. Perhaps you could cast some alu flasks. My wood flasks always ended up toasted when I used to melt alu..
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 4:21 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
I will definitely in the future, my problem at the monent Is that have a lot of timber in my shed and just a few aluminum ingots. When I will collect more aluminum I will make decent size flask. Molten metal is great, casting almost every object we can think of.
REPLY
Oct 21, 2010. 3:07 PMbrb112988 says:
very nice i have tryed this before this year and was having prblams when i melted my aluminum and let it salitify it was all choppy and dident look like one peice of aluminum it looked like a bunch of peaics glued together do u have any imput on how to help that problam
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 4:10 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Yes I have, First Main reason for that is low temperature. Aluminum will turn molten at 650C and good for pouring at 1000C. If you will give me more details about your foundry and the burner you are using it would be easier to pinpoint tne problem. Good insulation inside the furnace is very important to keep all the heat in, the key is good refractory. Second I dont know what type of burner you are using but I know from my experience when using charcoals it could be tricky to control the heat. Too much air from the blower and the charcoals disintegrate too quick, as result the aluminum semi melt. It happend to me at my first trial and error experiments. See my image it might look familiar.
REPLY
16
Oct 21, 2010. 9:39 AMCulturespy says:
Really excellent work. Have you ever tried adding ceramic powder to the aluminum? You can make very durable objects that way. I've seen the end product but don't know how it was done.
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 12:10 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I never used ceramic powder and to be honest its the first time I hear about it. What purpose does the powder have when adding it to the aluminum? I will have to google this one.
REPLY
16
Oct 21, 2010. 2:24 PMCulturespy says:
I think they're usually called ceramic matrix composites. I'm not at all sure ho it works or how it's done. I was hoping you might know something about it. Went to school with an engineer who did a project with it for his senior thesis.
REPLY
Oct 21, 2010. 1:12 PMbuirv says:
Excellent Work!!! I made a similar foundry to yours. I've added some photos... I got some of my Ideas from instructables like yours. Great Job!!
REPLY
2
Oct 21, 2010. 10:33 AMgdufford says:
Wow, this thing is beautiful. You'll still be using this 10 years from now, it looks very solid. I have a couple of books from Lindsay (http://www.lindsaybks.com) in my shop library that start with building your own foundry, then escalate up to a metal lathe using the foundry for the castings, etc.
The series promises to show you how to build a whole machine shop on your own, starting small, building, learning, building, learning... Pretty cool stuff.
I haven't needed my own castings for any project (yet), but I've always wanted to try it. I'm putting a small foundry like this back on my wish list. Thanks for the 'ible.
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 12:20 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I do believe the foundry will come in use for making many aluminum objects. Perhaps one day I will start a metal lathe project. At the moment I am still trying to work my way with the sand casting a lot of trail and error, it can get tricky when making more complexed shaped objects. When I will make more stuff I will add images to this ible ;-)
REPLY
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Oct 22, 2010. 6:46 AMbuteomont says:
I used a muffin tin for my ingots too, but be careful! I didn't realize that my first muffin tin was made from aluminum too. The molten metal just poured right through it!
REPLY
15
Oct 23, 2010. 11:42 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Some kitchen utensils are made of aluminum especially pots/pans. Next time if you are not sure just place a magnet to the material.
Thanks for the tip ;-)
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:57 AMxarlock667 says:
That does not always work, as stainless is not magnetic. Most cookwares state what they are made from if you look, if not call the maker and be damned sure. Cast Iron is always a good fall back.
REPLY
Oct 21, 2010. 4:22 PMjoel383 says:
looks good man! love all the pictures.
I highly recommend http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/index.php
We are a community if hobby metal casters. I'm currently working on my second furnace as well and, first Instructable ... see the progress here www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4897
I also highly recommend moving up to Waste Oil (WO) or Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO). The amount of energy contained in the oil far exceeds wood, and it is easy to store, as you don't need more than a couple gallons once you get it set up correctly... plus it's FREE! you will need a larger air supply probably. you really don't need much to move to oil. just a feed tube (copper works well), a valve to control oil flow and therefore temp, and a container for the oil.
here are some pictures of my old furnace back in Texas:
Two 1" layers of Kaowool, and the rest filled with dense castable refractory
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:54 AMxarlock667 says:
WOW that is THICK! Mine is only an inch thick! Are you melting steel or what?
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 10:25 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thanks for your comment and links, I was looking at the waste oil burner on your Alaskan Furnace forum and that is exactly what I need, Cant wait to see your furnace finished.
At the moment I am making sand rammer mold for my new furnace I will post images when it will be finished.
BTW can I copy your furnace images to my new blog?
http://flamingfurnace.blogspot.com/
I am making a page of homemade furnces images. I will credit you and add your link.
REPLY
Oct 23, 2010. 4:31 PMjoel383 says:
Absolutely. I don't have a camera, but once i get some refractory, I'll try to borrow one to document the build process and make it into an Instructable. This type of burner wasn't originally a WO burner so i will be running it off of diesel until i rig up a filtration system. Filtration is ESSENTIAL to this type because the aperture of the nozzle is so small. The atomization of the fuel is awesome, it makes a cloud out of diesel. I'm thinking about filtering it before i put it into the feed tank with an automotive oil filter.
will you be casting the rammer? http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2725&highlight=cast+rammer+aluminum
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2283&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=cast+rammer+aluminum&start=15
REPLY
15
Oct 24, 2010. 2:31 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I agree regarding waste oil burner, you do need realy good filter to keep all impurities away from the noozle. I just finished my sand rammer and I saw your link with the foam rammer casting, looks great I might make another rammer one day using lost foam method.
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:51 AMxarlock667 says:
I notice that your casting only had one sprue, You should always have 2, one to pour, and one as a pressure release(In case of a bit of excess water) and to allow extra air pockets to escape (to prevent bubbles). Aside from that, great foundry and good casting!
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 8:06 AMbasefilm says:
Great work. Clear, practical, useful. I appreciate the descriptions of what did not work (the first crucible) just as much as what did. It is maybe even more valuable from a safety standpoint to be aware of these things. Thank you!
REPLY
Oct 24, 2010. 7:12 AMhairybaroque says:
Beautifully clear photos and text! So sensible to keep it totally self contained with the charcoal; no feed joints to get a bit too hot and give up. Have you any plans to attempt producing dies to do repeat castings without sand? I like this ible!
REPLY
Oct 22, 2010. 9:23 AMThat Inventor Dude says:
Dat is Awesoooome
REPLY
15
Oct 23, 2010. 11:45 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you for your positive comment ;-)
REPLY
4
Oct 23, 2010. 5:05 AMtrailleadr says:
Very nicely done.
Just curious did you find that the tap handles melted a little easier than the other stuff? They look like a white metal (lead/tin alloy) not aluminum.
I would say be very selective about mixing your ingots for a big pour, so as to not compromise the strength of your casting. Good luck with your future metal work :)
REPLY
15
Oct 23, 2010. 9:20 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I think the tap handles are aluminum, I do my best not to mix different alloys and personally I am not in favor of melting anything that contains lead at all because its toxic nature. I mark every ingot what object it came from. Some objects could be deceving thinking it is aluminum but the difference could be easly spoted by the weight and color of the metal (lead is darker). I still haven't done big pours, at the moment practicing my sand casting on small scale objects. Thanks again for the tip :-)
REPLY
Oct 21, 2010. 1:17 PMbuirv says:
Here they are... Firefox has issues with Uploads
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 3:41 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Can I copy your furnace images to my new blog? http://flamingfurnace.blogspot.com/ I am making a page of homemade furnces images. I will credit you and add your image/blog ect' link. Thanks again.
REPLY
Oct 22, 2010. 4:46 PMbuirv says:
You have a nice site their. Sure you can post my pictures there. If you want, I can get you more detailed pictures.
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 2:13 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, Your foundry looks awesome! Very big ingots too. One question I have for you. At the moment I contemplating between Gas burner and Waste oil burner which of the two do you think is better regarding spending money, smoke, efficiency ect'. Until now I used only charcoal but to be honest I am fed up of the preparation every time, smoke and they dont last for long if the air blower setting is too high.
If you do use propane gas can you explain to me please how you made the gas burner. Thanks again ;-)
REPLY
Oct 22, 2010. 4:44 PMbuirv says:
Thank You - I prefur Propane over anything else. Just because it's clean burning. I live in Southern California, so Air Quality is an issue with the neighbors. Melting down old disk drive cases, beach chairs and soda cans are my primary sources of AL. All of is smokes at first when you melt it. Otherwise, Oil burners are probably the worst to mess around with.
See this site - I credit this guy for the burner information and what I based my foundry on. I also made a forge too. Same burner and setup. http://metalcast.boorman.us/
REPLY
6
Oct 22, 2010. 3:53 AMEmmettO says:
Propane burners are relatively easy. I make mine out of gas line parts. It takes some fiddling around with to get the lean/rich ratio right and the length of the burner (buy a couple gas nipples from 12" to 8" to try). The hardest part is drilling out the burner hole in a small 1/4 inch pipe. I think my hole is a #60 drill bit (maybe a #58) it's been too long. Start small and work your way up. You'll need an adjustable high pressure regulator too. regular 10 lb propane tanks are too small to feed a burner and will freeze after about a half hour. You'd need a bigger tank, or several tanks to switch between.
All that said, a waste oil burner is the better burner it gets hotter and is cheaper to operate (at least in theory, its waste oil). The down side is that they tend to be more complicated and more finicky.
REPLY
6
Oct 21, 2010. 6:21 PMEmmettO says:
I always had trouble figuring out what I wanted to cast. I've made a few cups out of copper and aluminum and some ingots. I built a reverb furnace for breaking down scrap, haven't used it yet. I'd like to try plaques using lost foam. I've been too busy though.
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 10:35 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thanks for all the burner info and images, I think I will go with the waste oil burner I checked a few sites and many foundry users change to waste oil.
Cool images I never worked with copper but I belive nice molds could be created in sand casting.
Can I copy your furnace images to my new blog? http://flamingfurnace.blogspot.com/
I am making a page of homemade furnces images.
I will credit you and add your link.
REPLY
6
Oct 22, 2010. 11:38 AMEmmettO says:
Oh, and yes you may use the pics.
REPLY
15
Oct 22, 2010. 3:43 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you :-)
REPLY
6
Oct 22, 2010. 11:36 AMEmmettO says:
I don't have burner build info but here are some links and pics.
http://www.store32.net/chaudywogbaaga/index.php/2008/09/09/my_forge_burner?blog=2
http://www.store32.net/chaudywogbaaga/index.php/2009/03/03/making_a_new_metal_melting_furnace_and_a?blog=2
http://www.store32.net/chaudywogbaaga/index.php/2009/03/23/fire?blog=2
REPLY
4
Oct 21, 2010. 12:26 AMKryptonite says:
That looks awesome, nice job, and I can't wait to see what else you make!
REPLY
15
Oct 21, 2010. 2:35 AMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you for your positive comment ;-)
REPLY
4
Oct 22, 2010. 4:18 AMKryptonite says:
No probs, nice greentext there.
REPLY
6
Oct 21, 2010. 6:28 PMEmmettO says:
As for crucibles, I struggled with making a crucible for melting copper. It would melt through every steel crucible I made. I eventually found a site that sells cheap fire clay crucibles and thats what I use now. http://www.lmine.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LMS&Product_Code=17703&Category_Code=economy_repacks
REPLY
18
Oct 21, 2010. 3:15 PMreukpower says:
I like it, and I like molten metal. Perhaps you could cast some alu flasks. My wood flasks always ended up toasted when I used to melt alu..
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Oct 21, 2010. 4:21 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
I will definitely in the future, my problem at the monent Is that have a lot of timber in my shed and just a few aluminum ingots. When I will collect more aluminum I will make decent size flask. Molten metal is great, casting almost every object we can think of.
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Oct 21, 2010. 3:07 PMbrb112988 says:
very nice i have tryed this before this year and was having prblams when i melted my aluminum and let it salitify it was all choppy and dident look like one peice of aluminum it looked like a bunch of peaics glued together do u have any imput on how to help that problam
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Oct 21, 2010. 4:10 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Yes I have, First Main reason for that is low temperature. Aluminum will turn molten at 650C and good for pouring at 1000C. If you will give me more details about your foundry and the burner you are using it would be easier to pinpoint tne problem. Good insulation inside the furnace is very important to keep all the heat in, the key is good refractory. Second I dont know what type of burner you are using but I know from my experience when using charcoals it could be tricky to control the heat. Too much air from the blower and the charcoals disintegrate too quick, as result the aluminum semi melt. It happend to me at my first trial and error experiments. See my image it might look familiar.
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Oct 21, 2010. 9:39 AMCulturespy says:
Really excellent work. Have you ever tried adding ceramic powder to the aluminum? You can make very durable objects that way. I've seen the end product but don't know how it was done.
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Oct 21, 2010. 12:10 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I never used ceramic powder and to be honest its the first time I hear about it. What purpose does the powder have when adding it to the aluminum? I will have to google this one.
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Oct 21, 2010. 2:24 PMCulturespy says:
I think they're usually called ceramic matrix composites. I'm not at all sure ho it works or how it's done. I was hoping you might know something about it. Went to school with an engineer who did a project with it for his senior thesis.
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Oct 21, 2010. 1:12 PMbuirv says:
Excellent Work!!! I made a similar foundry to yours. I've added some photos... I got some of my Ideas from instructables like yours. Great Job!!
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Oct 21, 2010. 10:33 AMgdufford says:
Wow, this thing is beautiful. You'll still be using this 10 years from now, it looks very solid. I have a couple of books from Lindsay (http://www.lindsaybks.com) in my shop library that start with building your own foundry, then escalate up to a metal lathe using the foundry for the castings, etc.
The series promises to show you how to build a whole machine shop on your own, starting small, building, learning, building, learning... Pretty cool stuff.
I haven't needed my own castings for any project (yet), but I've always wanted to try it. I'm putting a small foundry like this back on my wish list. Thanks for the 'ible.
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Oct 21, 2010. 12:20 PMNutandBolt (author) says:
Thank you, I do believe the foundry will come in use for making many aluminum objects. Perhaps one day I will start a metal lathe project. At the moment I am still trying to work my way with the sand casting a lot of trail and error, it can get tricky when making more complexed shaped objects. When I will make more stuff I will add images to this ible ;-)
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http://www.instructables.com/id/My-Second-Aluminium-Foundry/
I found allot of interesting Ideas on Making your own Foundry in the Comment Links. So, I Put them in the Post. Here's the Links if you want to get to them without reading the comments. Definately read or look through all of the rest of the Pics in the Instructable My Second Aluminium Foundry. It's a great looking Foundry and he give allot of Details on how he built his... Aluminium Foundry Made from a Gas Cylinder Tank and Links from Comments
My Second Aluminium Foundry
BackyardMetalcasting.com - Lionel's Laboratory :: Index
BackyardMetalcasting.com - Lionel's Laboratory :: View topic - The Alaskan Furnace
Homemade Aluminum Foundry
BackyardMetalcasting.com - Lionel's Laboratory :: View topic - Another lost foam Rammer
My Forge Burner
Making a new Metal Melting Furnace and a small Forge.
Fire!
Chaudywogbaaga
Legend Inc. Sparks, Nevada USA: Size "K" Import Crucible - Each
YouTube - My aluminum Foundry in action.
Don
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